Quick answer: The five pure veg foods to try in Varanasi during Dev Deepawali are kachori sabzi with jalebi, tamatar chaat, malaiyo, kulhad lassi and chooda matar. Most are found in the old city around Thatheri Bazaar, Chowk, Kachori Gali and Godowlia. Eat in the morning or early afternoon, because the lanes near the ghats fill up fast on festival day, Tuesday 24 November 2026. Malaiyo is a winter morning sweet, so its availability that early in the season depends on the weather.
Varanasi is one of the best food cities in India for vegetarians. Its street food comes from a temple town tradition, and many classic shops in the old city serve only vegetarian food. Late November is also the start of winter, which brings a few seasonal treats you will not find the rest of the year.
Here are five dishes worth planning your Dev Deepawali days around.
1. Kachori sabzi and jalebi, the Banarasi breakfast
Start the day the way Banaras does. Small, crisp fried kachoris come with a tangy potato sabzi, and hot jalebis soaked in sugar syrup finish the plate. It is the classic Varanasi breakfast, and the shops that make it are busiest in the early morning.
Where to try it: Ram Bhandar in Thatheri Bazaar is one of the best known names, and its breakfast kachoris are made without onion or garlic. Other kachori shops line the old city lanes around Chowk.
Good to know: Breakfast kachoris sell out by late morning, so go early.
2. Tamatar chaat, the city’s signature chaat
Tamatar chaat is a Varanasi speciality. Tomatoes are mashed and cooked with potato, spices, green chilli and ginger, then served hot in a clay bowl, topped with crunchy sev, fresh coriander and a squeeze of lime. It is spicy and tangy in the same bite.
Where to try it: Kashi Chaat Bhandar near Godowlia crossing is the most famous address, with palak patta chaat and other chaats on the same menu.
Good to know: Godowlia is the road that leads down to Dashashwamedh Ghat, so it is one of the most crowded parts of the city on Dev Deepawali evening. Have your chaat a day before or early on festival day. For the best view of the evening itself, see our 5 must do things during Dev Deepawali.
3. Malaiyo, the winter only sweet
Malaiyo is a cloud of whipped milk foam flavoured with saffron and cardamom and topped with pistachio and almond. Milk is left out overnight in the winter air and churned at dawn, which gives malaiyo its light, airy texture. It melts almost as soon as it touches your tongue.
Where to try it: Vendors sell it from brass pots in the lanes of Chowk, Thatheri Bazaar and Vishwanath Gali in the early morning.
Good to know: Malaiyo is made only in winter, roughly November to February, and only in the morning. Dev Deepawali falls at the very start of the season, so availability depends on the weather that year.
4. Kulhad lassi, thick enough to eat with a spoon
Banarasi lassi is thick, sweet curd churned by hand, served in a clay kulhad and topped with malai. Many shops also add fruit, saffron or dry fruits.
Where to try it: Blue Lassi in Kachori Gali, close to Manikarnika Ghat, is the best known shop and serves a long menu of flavours.
Good to know: The lanes around Kachori Gali are narrow and get crowded, so visit in the late morning or afternoon rather than on festival evening.
5. Chooda matar, the winter breakfast of Banaras
Chooda matar is flattened rice cooked with fresh green peas, cream and spices. It is a seasonal winter dish in Varanasi, made when fresh winter peas come into the markets, and it is richer than the poha you may know from home.
Where to try it: Kashi Chaat Bhandar in Godowlia serves it in season, along with many sweet shops in the old city.
Good to know: It is a seasonal dish, so ask the shop if it is being made that day.
A few tips for eating out during the festival
- Eat before you head to the ghats. Vehicle movement near the ghats is restricted during Dev Deepawali, and lanes fill with people from the afternoon.
- Go early in the day. Breakfast specialities like kachori and malaiyo are morning foods.
- Keep it simple on festival evening. A good lunch and light snacks work better than trying to find a table near the ghats at night. The Dev Deepawali 2026 Bajra boat package serves traditional Banarasi refreshments on the river.
- Plan around the crowds. Read the 5 Dev Deepawali mistakes to avoid in Varanasi before you go.
Taste Banaras with House of Ullassa
If you would rather not plan meals and logistics yourself, House of Ullassa packages build local food into the trip.
- The Varanasi Dev Diwali Experience, 2 nights and 3 days at ₹8,500 per adult, includes daily breakfast and dinner and an evening on Day 1 exploring the old lanes, local street food, sweets and Banarasi silk shops.
- The Dev Deepawali 2026 Varanasi Group Tour, 23 to 25 November at ₹8,500 per person on double sharing, includes festive thali style dining, a Banarasi feast and thali showcase, lunch at a heritage vegetarian restaurant and a food tasting and heritage walk.
- The Dev Deepawali Taj Ganges Package, 24 to 26 November at ₹1,25,000 per person, includes all meals as per the itinerary, with Banarasi snacks on the private Bajra and lunch at Baati Chokha before departure.
Not sure which one suits you? Compare the Dev Deepawali 2026 packages, or read our Varanasi and Lucknow heritage circuit for more on the food of the region. See all Festival Tour packages or message House of Ullassa on WhatsApp.
Book the Dev Deepawali 2026 Bajra boat package
Tuesday 24 November 2026, reporting 4:00 PM, ₹8,500 per person. A reserved seat on a traditional double decked Bajra, Ganga Aarti from the river, a guided Deep Daan with a priest onboard, live Damru, a Kashi Cultural Host and Banarasi refreshments.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Varanasi good for vegetarian food?
Yes. Varanasi is a temple town, and many of its classic shops in the old city serve only vegetarian food, from kachori sabzi to chaat and sweets.
What is the most famous street food in Varanasi?
Kachori sabzi with jalebi for breakfast and tamatar chaat in the evening are the two dishes most closely linked with Varanasi.
Will malaiyo be available during Dev Deepawali?
Malaiyo is made only on winter mornings, roughly November to February. Dev Deepawali on 24 November 2026 falls at the start of the season, so it depends on the weather that year.
Where is the best area for street food in Varanasi?
The old city around Chowk, Thatheri Bazaar, Kachori Gali, Vishwanath Gali and Godowlia has most of the famous shops. Visit them earlier in the day during the festival.
Is Varanasi food pure veg and Jain friendly?
Most of the classic old city shops serve only vegetarian food, and some, like Ram Bhandar for its breakfast kachoris, cook without onion or garlic. For Jain requirements, ask the shop about onion, garlic and root vegetables before you order.
What is the best time to eat on Dev Deepawali day?
Eat in the morning or early afternoon. Breakfast specialities like kachori and malaiyo are morning foods, and the lanes near the ghats fill with people from the afternoon on 24 November 2026.